This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Adam Jones, the 53-year-old owner of Myer's Bagels in Burlington, Vermont. It's been edited for length and clarity. We specialize in Montreal-style bagel production . For us, it's just north of us. For the rest of the country, it's a newer item. We don't proof them as much, so they don't get as airy. They're denser and a little chewier. We also use wood to cook the bagels. We're about 22 people, and everyone takes the orders, makes the