This remote desert in South America is one of the best places in the world for astronomy, but the slow encroachment of artificial light threatens that. It is a sign of just how inescapable light pollution now is. It's 2:00 in Chile's Atacama Desert, and I wake up in the dark. Inside my room, it's the kind of black where you don’t know if your eyes are open or shut. I reach for my phone, hoping for some light to orient myself. But then I remember where I am. Instead, I edge towards my room's