On a cold winter night, around 200km (125 miles) from the Indian capital Delhi, dozens of people huddle around telescopes, waiting for darkness to settle over the landscape. Over the next few hours, more than 150 meteors streak across the sky - a spectacle all but impossible to witness from India's sprawling light-polluted cities. For many travellers, experiences like this are becoming as compelling as visits to monuments or wildlife sanctuaries. Dark skies, once taken for granted, are now a