The wine business is in trouble due to reduced demand and changing tastes. You’d therefore think that restaurants, which need to sell lots of vino to stay in business, would go the extra mile to see that ordering the stuff is easy and without subjecting us to political proselytizing. You’d be wrong. These days, restaurant wine service isn’t haughty — the way it once was — but it’s obnoxious in a different way. Wine lists are full of confusing categories and unnecessary concepts and annoying