This Scottish island isn’t just home to fantastic food and magnificent views; it has a whole host of excellent hotels, too Sign up to Simon Calder’s free travel email for expert advice and money-saving discounts Get Simon Calder’s Travel email Get Simon Calder’s Travel email Email * SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our Privacy notice The mountains are charcoal black and rust red. The sea cloudy blue, always translucent. The sand