For 15 years, Vahanduckt Melkonyan, 89, has been the only resident of her village, trapped in a geopolitical cauldron between the borders of unfriendly neighbors. Every day, she lights her clay tonir oven, sending up one small signal that life clings on in this sliver of Armenia on the border with Turkey in a sealed zone patrolled by Russian troops. “I live with hope. Hope brings light,” says Melkonyan, barely registering the chill winter wind that gusts through the village of Kharkov. For once,