Thousands of skeletons gather to celebrate the dead. Many are wearing masks, others face paint. One is dancing on steps beside me. It’s nearly 8pm and blues, greens and reds reflect vividly in shadowy water as I take my seat at the historic La Villita Historic Arts Village at the southern bank of San Antonio’s majestic River Walk. Excitement is building for the Day of the Dead River Parade, the first of several Día de Muertos spectacles set to take over the south-central Texas city on November