Tens of thousands of Palestinians are taking the long march home to north Gaza, only to find ash and ruins, report Nedal Hamdouna and Bel Trew On The Ground newsletter: Get a weekly dispatch from our international correspondents Get a weekly dispatch from our international correspondents Get a weekly international news dispatch Email * SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our Privacy notice S tretching out to the horizon in front of