My glass of Pol Roger, expensive though it is now, will not be getting more expensive any time soon I have to begin this column with a glass of  Pol Roger cuvée Winston Churchill . It’s fancy stuff, and — according to some — it’s a bit early in the day to be quaffing Champagne.  “How early is too early?” I’ve often wondered that. The jury is out but most of the best authorities say that any time before actually awakening is too early.