Beyond Noma: What’s really choking California restaurants

Cristiana Gigina

Noma’s highly anticipated $1,500-per-head tasting menu in LA would have been controversial under any circumstances.  But when it is being hosted by a chef facing scrutiny over abusive kitchen practices, a backlash was inevitable. What’s ironic, though, is that much of the outrage is coming from the same elite food world that helped build a culture of abuse.  The New York Times recently detailed allegations of long hours, unpaid labor, harassment, and abusive kitchen culture at Noma . The