Visitors to Istanbul sometimes say that they love how the new and old mesh together in the city. You can take a brand-new metro line to visit ancient mosques, for example, or take an Uber through a historic aqueduct on your way to dinner. I hate it when people say this. The vast majority of Istanbul was built in the last 40 years, and the ancient-modern juxtaposition, such as it exists, isn’t any more pronounced than anywhere in Europe. Walk down many a street in London, and you see 300-year-