Editor’s Note: Sign up for Unlocking the World, CNN Travel’s weekly newsletter . Get news about destinations, plus the latest in aviation, food and drink, and where to stay. CNN  —  Miami. Just saying the name is enough to conjure thoughts of vibrant nightlife, streets aglow with neon and Art Deco architecture that lends everything a hip, 20th-century feel. This Florida gem is in your face and proud to be so. Yet it hasn’t always been like this. Miami is a city that has changed beyond