Overpriced set menus, hushed dining rooms and romance by spreadsheet – Valentine’s Day can make even great restaurants feel strangely unromantic. Food writer Hannah Twiggs makes the case for opting out I love Valentine’s Day . This is important because any criticism of how people choose to spend 14 February risks sounding like bitterness. None of that here. I am unapologetically pro- romance , aggressively pro-grand gestures and entirely supportive of anything involving good wine and