BAGHDAD—It is early morning. A cool breeze blows off the Tigris. I stand in a Baghdad street and look at the map in my hand and then again at the door and wonder if I’m in the right place. A cat eyes me from the crumbling wall. I’m looking for the house of Isaac Amit, who lived here until 1971. His family fled Iraq after the Ba’ath party came to power; they were among the last members of Baghdad’s Jewish community to leave the city. In my hand is a drawing of the house sent to me by Amit. “I