Stepping off the night train, full of memories of his life there three decades ago, the writer finds a changed city fighting for survival Stepping off the night train, full of memories of his life there three decades ago, the writer finds a changed city fighting for survival M y first flat in Kyiv was a couple of metro stops outside the city centre, just opposite Volodymyrskyy market, in a nondescript mid-20th century block. The lease was arranged by post. It took me five days to drive there