The discreet turning off the twisting road up into the mountains from Santa Fe is easy to miss. The roads are unlit around here, and the vast slab of New Mexican sky offers little in the way of stars to guide the way. But it’s here - in splendid seclusion - that Gene Hackman has called home for 20 years after quitting Hollywood. You can see the attraction for a man who was left frazzled by the industry, and wanted to recharge his soul. Eerily quiet with very little through traffic, the