On my birthday, five years ago, I had the best overnight stay I suspect I will ever have. My girlfriend whisked me down to Dartmoor on a surprise trip, telling me no more than to be at London Waterloo at a certain time with my walking boots. After a brief, educational visit to Okehampton's excellent Museum of Dartmoor Life, and a chuckle at the curious-looking, vaguely humanoid models in it, we stomped across the moor to Lydford to spend the night at The Castle Inn. It was that evening spent