Three-and-a-half-thousand hungry Alsatians wolf down platters of charcuterie and periodically burst into noisy chorus. No, it is not the police dogs' annual convention, but the latest iteration of a feasting phenomenon that is sweeping provincial France. The Alsace town of Colmar – famous for its half-timbered medieval centre – was the scene last weekend of one of the banquets géants – huge banquets whose popularity in the country has suddenly become a hot political issue. Run by a company