Through gestures big and small, Bruce Friedrich conforms to the archetype of a lifelong anti-meat crusader. He bikes almost everywhere. He was once arrested for streaking in front of Buckingham Palace with the web address goveg.com painted across his body. He runs a Washington, D.C., nonprofit, the Good Food Institute, that champions alternative proteins and doles out grants to accelerate their development. And he is a dutiful vegan whom I have witnessed scraping the cheese from the patty of an