While Málaga battles overtourism down the coast, this ‘forgotten’ working port city revels in its outsider status While Málaga battles overtourism down the coast, this ‘forgotten’ working port city revels in its outsider status P erched high on the battlements of Almería’s 10th-century Alcazaba , looking over the mosaic of flat roofs tumbling down to the sea, I’m reminded of author Gerald Brenan’s travel classic South from Granada , and his impression upon arriving in Almería in 1920: “