This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Zach Negin, 46, owner of Tabula Rasa Bar in Los Angeles. The following has been edited for length and clarity. I own a neighborhood bar in Los Angeles, where the bulk of what we sell is wine. There weren't many wine bars in Los Angeles when we opened nine years ago. When we first opened, we had to establish ourselves, get to know everybody, be good stewards of the neighborhood, and gain the trust of our customers. Then COVID happened. We

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