If you eat beef, and ever stop to wonder where and how it's produced, Jonathan Chapman's farm in the Chiltern Hills west of London is what you might imagine. A small native herd, eating only the pasture beneath their hooves in a meadow fringed by beech trees, their leaves turning to match the copper coats of the Ruby Red Devons, selected for slaughter only after fattening naturally during a contented if short existence. But this bucolic scene belies the turmoil in the beef market, where herds

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