There are precious few locations on Earth where the contemporary world and heritage exist alongside each other quite like they do in London. A brief stroll from the famous towers of Canary Wharf (immortalised by those overhead shots in The Apprentice) I discover myself in a drinking establishment that stood here when Sir Walter Raleigh's third voyage departed for the New World from the Thames right outside in 1587. The Grapes has occupied this spot for almost 500 years. You can sense it. It's