I'm standing at a UNESCO World Heritage site, but my gaze is firmly fixed on the gorge floor beneath me. This isn't some intentional act of humility; our guide, Zuhair Zuriqat, is building up the suspense for the ancient wonder we're about to lay eyes on for the first time. "After I count to three, I need you to look up my friends", instructs Zuhair. "So one, two and three..." As I lift my gaze, I'm met with the awe-inspiring sight of the Treasury, the most intricate rock-carved tomb in Petra,