I set off for Portugal less than 24 hours after the Persian Gulf once again turned into a battlefield of global pride, fear and economic interests. I couldn't have chosen a worse moment for cultural-historical tourism. The world seemed to be shrugging its shoulders, dressed in a coat a few sizes too small. But I consoled myself with the thought that I had chosen Lisbon and not Dubai. Although, if you listen to the apartment salesmen, the latter would also moan about history, culture, science