Wu'er Kaixi has put on weight in the last 37 years and his greying hair no longer flops over his eyes in the style he affected as a student at Beijing Normal University in 1989, but some things have not changed. He is, for instance, still on the list of student dissidents that the Chinese government identified as the ringleaders of the Tiananmen Square protests in those heady days when democracy seemed a possibility for China. Now, 58 and living in Taipei, Kaixi is just as outspoken about the