It is just past noon at the crescent-shaped Palolem beach on the southern tip of Goa's long, sandy coastline. The sun is blinding hot, but that has not deterred the tourist hordes from splashing about in the ocean. The beachside shacks and cheap backpacker hotels hugging the bay in the state often dubbed India's party capital are full with tourists. What's different here from some years ago, though, is that the Europeans and Russians who once thronged Palolem and other beach villages of Goa are