The Man Who Pays His Way: Locals look after lost souls Sign up to Simon Calder’s free travel email for expert advice and money-saving discounts Get Simon Calder’s Travel email Get Simon Calder’s Travel email Email * SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our Privacy notice The Danube mist was so thick I could hardly see the dawn. On Friday I woke up in a cheap hotel in the Romanian city of Galati, close to the point where the nation meets