As sovereignism has made a strong comeback in European chancelleries and on the agenda of ordinary people - whether culturally, economically or fueled by TikTok and historical resentments - I thought I would dismount a little and travel through lands where the idea has deep roots and inflamed nerves: in Catalonia, that stubborn province of Spain that dreams of a state in the shadow of the Pyrenees and the port of Barcelona. Since the route established by Hello Holidays (Hello Premium Tours