It’s not exactly a yellow brick road. The journey to the other side begins when you step off a nondescript curb and onto a pathway of concrete paving stones, light grey in color. Soon, a dark-green mesh fence surrounds you, funneling you toward the first of two customs booths – the Polish one. Once you clear it, you enter a tunnel-like stretch of footpath, then an open-air section. This is no man’s land, a neutral zone. Here, I spotted a squad of eight or nine lads, all fit, of a military