For a long time, the history of tiny Ladakh - a stunning region popular with tourists, nestled high in the Himalayas - has been shaped by notions of spirituality, mysticism and a sense of otherworldliness. But now, its fabled tranquillity has been shattered by deadly violence. Protests for greater autonomy from India erupted last week and spiralled into clashes between crowds and police in which four civilians were killed and at least 80 injured. Police arrested Sonam Wangchuk, a prominent