Swerve the tourist crowds for these lived-in districts, hiding in plain sight in the Portuguese capital, says Estella Shardlow Sign up to Simon Calder’s free travel email for expert advice and money-saving discounts Get Simon Calder’s Travel email Get Simon Calder’s Travel email Email * SIGN UP I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our Privacy notice S tanding shoulder-to-shoulder on the number 28 tram, jostling for space at a Pink Street bar,