An intriguing, punchy fusion of Taiwanese and Italian noodle dishes An intriguing, punchy fusion of Taiwanese and Italian noodle dishes L ast year, the comedian Nish Kumar accused me of being in the pocket of “big cabbage”, because I was waxing lyrical about it. But look here, Nish, everyone is cabbage obsessed . It’s not just the Guardian; the internet is awash with “best cabbage” recipes and there’s a lot to love: it’s cheap, generous and genuinely delicious cooked and wilted down with onions