Dead sunflowers line the road into a snowy Ukrainian village only miles from fighting. But despite the hardship of overcoming brutal Russian occupation, life here has endured… so it might bloom again. Faint booms and gunfire in the distance offer a soundtrack to our visit to Kramarivka in Kharkiv oblast, north-east Ukraine . Military training takes place nearby, we are told; but to the untuned ear it’s hard to tell the difference. The frontline is about 20 miles away, but this village was once