"It’s easy. Pull the reins left, the horse goes left. Pull right, he goes right. He goes downhill, you lean back. Uphill, the opposite.” And with that 30 second lesson, I had learned to ride a horse. In Argentina , you don’t need a helmet, a 10-week course at a riding centre or any health and safety waivers before you’re let loose into the Andes. All you need is to entrust your life to Negra the Mendozan gaucho and his Snow White-like ability to perfectly control three horses with clicks and