ADVERTISEMENT When I visited Naples almost a decade ago, guidebooks, hoteliers, and well-meaning locals all warned me of the foolhardiness of being a lone foreign woman in the city. Most adamantly, they urged me not to set foot in the Quartieri Spagnoli, a neighbourhood then notorious for crime and violence. Fast forward to 2025, the 2,500th anniversary of the city’s founding, and Naples’ metamorphosis is hard to keep up with. When I asked my taxi driver for recommendations for where to eat