The sounds of Cap-Haïtien, Haiti, historically referred to as “the Paris of the Antilles,” are inimitable. One night, I could have sworn I heard a man turn into a werewolf. My skepticism kept me from truly believing it, but when I heard a man yell as though he were being exorcised, combined with the barks of dogs superimposed over his suffering, I understood the folklore of Haiti’s countryside. It not only sounded supernatural, it felt that way. I had a nightmare that night. When you’re from